Choosing the right species for the spot, planting properly, and aftercare so it actually establishes — not dies in year two.
Why most new trees die
Three reasons, in order: wrong species for the soil and aspect; planted too deep with the root flare buried; not watered through the first two summers. None of these are the tree's fault. All three are fixable.
Species selection
We'll suggest species based on what the spot can actually support — soil type, drainage, sun, mature size, and what you want from the tree. Some directions we get asked for:
- Small ornamental — Amelanchier, crab apple, ornamental cherry, Cercis. Front gardens, courtyards.
- Multi-stem & architectural — birch, hawthorn, Cornus kousa. Lawn specimens.
- Fruit — heritage apples and pears on appropriate rootstock for the space.
- Shade & screening — hornbeam, hazel, holm oak, evergreen oak (in larger gardens).
- Replacements for removed trees — like-for-like or, more often, something better suited to the site.
How we plant
Squarish pit, twice the rootball width; root flare at finished ground level (not below it); backfilled with the native soil — no peat, no bagged compost; single low stake at 45° if needed; mulched but kept off the trunk; watered in.
Aftercare — the bit most companies skip
New trees need around 50–80 litres a week through their first two summers, or they die. We can either take that on as an aftercare contract (visits with a water bowser and a check of the stake/tie/mulch), or we'll show you how to do it yourself. Either is fine — but it has to happen.
Replacement plantings after removal
If we've taken down a tree for you, planting a replacement is often part of the conversation — especially if there was a TPO or a conservation-area condition attached. We'll talk you through the species options and what the council expects.
Frequently asked
When's the best time to plant?
Bare-root: November to March, while the tree is dormant. Container-grown: most of the year, but autumn or early spring are still easiest on the tree.
How long until it looks like a 'proper' tree?
Honest answer: 5–10 years depending on species. We can supply larger semi-mature stock if you want a shortcut — costs more, needs more aftercare.
Do you guarantee the trees?
Yes — we replace any tree that fails in the first year, provided aftercare was followed. After year one it's down to weather, watering and bad luck.
Can you replace a TPO'd tree we had to remove?
Yes. The replacement is often a condition of the consent — we can supply, plant and look after it.